From the old French ‘linge’ meaning linen, lingerie was originally introduced into the English language as a euphemism for scandalous underclothing! Lingerie, by virtue of personal choice, can now be as scandalous as you wish.
Looking back, however, should make any woman be thankful to be born during this particular time. In the past, undergarments were painful, dangerous and downright bizarre.
The women of the pre-Christian times were expected to bare all. Breasts were pushed up and out and more often than not left uncovered. By comparison, during the medieval era, it was a time of sexual repression and denial and lingerie reflected that.
Medieval corsets flattened the breasts almost to the point of non-existence. The lingerie Renaissance of the 18th Century brought a new focus on womanly curves. Cleavage was highly prized. Lingerie was designed to heighten this effect. Breasts up, waists in.
By the 19th Century consumer demands and doctor outrage brought about a lingerie revolution. Corsets became smaller and less restrictive. The brassiere was born, which is the French for support and stockings were also introduced. Women were now entering the workplace and a more practical approach evolved.
When the men went off to fight in the First World War, women found themselves in a new status as the breadwinners of their families and more practical undergarments were needed. Brassieres had to be light enough to be worn in just about any industrial work condition. This led to fabric becoming lighter and more breathable; style was functional and focused on support over appearance.
The Roaring Twenties saw an end to the corsets. New ideas that surrounded sexuality and beauty were created by the Flapper Girls. Boyish physiques were popularized with their short bob hairstyles and flapper dresses.
To bring the history of lingerie up to date, I visited Susan Hunter Lingerie shop at the Westbury Mall. Susan has twenty five years of hands-on expertise in lingerie, and this year the shop celebrates its silver jubilee.
Susan takes pride in stocking lingerie of top quality and designs. La Perla would be renowned as the Waterford Crystal of lingerie. It is Italian.
The skill and detail found in each piece, imaginatively crafted on small looms in colourful or sultry, delicate fabrics is wonderful to behold.
The French label, Lejaby, is very popular and designed for a-great- fit. Aubade is for bigger sizes. Susan showed me the brochure of a new Dutch design she is introducing called Marlies Dekkers.
This would be my own personal choice. One might compare it to wearing a beautiful floral silk dress with a pair of Doc Martens. A look I personally love. A bit Agnes Deyn style.
Nighties and PJs of the finest of silks and cottons, namely ‘voile’ cotton, almost opaque and the Celestine range of white long nightdresses are exquisite. They wash and iron like a handkerchief and feel like treasured pearls adorning your skin.
I was pleasantly surprised to see Susan Hunter have their own Susan Hunter line of PJs. A linen and pure silk blend with French seams and drawstring-waist style, finished with mother of pearl buttons.
After visiting Susan’s shop, an item can plague you hours later, when you step out of your hot, luxurious bubble-bath and imagine how that silk Japanese Kimono would feel next to your freshly-bathed skin.
All of a sudden, the Japanese kimono is a ‘must have’ whatever the cost. A visit to Susan Hunter is an exhilarating experience, inspiring the imagination.
Will you go for the flowing Victorian nightgown or devil-may-care suspenders? Today, women have the freedom to wear what they like without being dictated to by social norms or fashion.
Susan Hunter, Westbury Mall, Grafton Street. Tel: 679 1271.
www.susanhunterlingerie.ie