MEMORIES OF WASHINGTON DC
By James O'Doherty

It was a cold February afternoon as I boarded an Aer Lingus flight to America. My destination was the most powerful place on earth– Washington DC– the beautiful but daunting imperial city with its neo-classical buildings and great boulevards.

Seven hours later I arrived at Dulles airport and was passed through immigration by a Jimmy Fitzgerald, a third generation Irishman who after a thorough check sent me on my way with a robust ‘God bless the Irish, enjoy your stay!’

On a bitterly cold Monday morning I took the Metro to Arlington Cemetery– the Mecca of my visit! It was a breathtaking sight: row upon row of white stones mark the graves of soldiers who gave their lives for the country. This 657-acre site was established during the Civil War and is visited by four million people each year.

On the rolling lawns overlooked by Arlington House approximately 300,000 people rest. The cleanliness and respect shown by all who visit the cemetery is amazing, the security while apparent is not invasive. One is aware at all times that this is a sacred place honouring the famous, the not-so-famous, the known and the unknown.

In this beautiful, landscaped memorial the most visited grave is that of John F. Kennedy. The plot consists of a circular walkway which approaches a small terrace. The eternal flame was lit by Jacqueline Kennedy on the day of his funeral and in 1994 she was laid to rest alongside him.

I paid my respects to Robert Kennedy a short distance from his brother. His grave is marked by a simple white cross.

Memories of happy nights spent in the Regal Cinema in Ringsend and the Ritz in Ballsbridge came flooding back as I stood at the simple white Government Issue tombstone that marks the grave of Audie Murphy, pictured below, World War II’s most decorated soldier and a successful actor (1924-1971). I had been enthralled by Murphy’s performances in films like ‘To Hell and Back’, in which he portrayed himself. Many would say his best performance was in ‘Red Badge of Courage’ .

His was an unhappy life, his business was unsuccessful and he was bankrupt in 1968. All his life he was haunted by nightmares from his wartime experiences and he could only sleep with a loaded pistol under his pillow. He died in a private plane crash in 1971 just outside Virginia. He was 46 years old. Sleep well, little man

.The tomb of the unknown soldiers is a solemn monument, guarded twenty four hours a day by the old Guard. The Shuttle Memorials honour those who died in the Space Shuttle Challenger disaster. The Amphitheatre Memorial honours the memory of war veterans and is the magnificent setting for the annual Veterans Day commemoration.

Leaving Arlington, my next stop was the majestic monument to the President who preserved America’s unity and began the process of ending slavery. Built in the form of a Greek temple with an enormous statue of a seated Abraham Lincoln, this is a magnificent sight.

On then to one of the tallest masonry structures in the world, The Washington Monument. It is a dominant feature on the city’s skyline, 170 metres high it took four decades to complete.

I visited The Korean War Memorial, National Archives, National Sculpture Park and the most visited museum in the world The National Air and Space Museum. I also fitted in the International Spy Museum and the Jewish Holocaust Museum.

A visit to the National Zoo that houses the almost extinct panda was enjoyable. A huge highlight of my visit was The Basilica of The Immaculate Conception. It is a magnificent example of traditional Christian architecture built in honour of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It is the patron church of US Catholics and the nation’s pre-eminent Marian Shrine. I enjoyed the majestic space with its beautiful sacred art and its resident professional choir and chamber orchestra. There are six masses and five hours of confessions daily. A simple candle lit at a shrine was my contribution to this magnificent place.

A visit to the National History Museum with its magnificent butterfly and plants exhibition was most interesting. Hundreds of butterflies flew around us. On to Pentagon City and its four-storey shopping mall. Over to Pennsylvania Avenue with its Borders and Barnes and Nobel book stores.

As the week closed, the weather picked up and it was on a bright, sunny day I walked to the elegant building that is the White House. Probably the most familiar of the world’s political buildings, seeing it up close is an experience. 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue– that unique address! This neo-classical mansion has 132 rooms and is the residence of the US President, the seat of Executive Power. Since the 9/11 attacks and the Iraq war it is no longer open to the public.

In the final hours of my visit I attended 12.10 mass in St Patrick’s Church just ten minutes from my hotel. I was interested to read that the first curate there was one Fr Anthony Caffrey from Dublin. A small world indeed! I was surprised at the large congregation, young and old, at mass during the day.

Washington DC is planted with trees and flowers and is well maintained. The Tidal Basin is planted with famous cherry trees and in early April the annual cherry blossom festival is held, with concerts, parades and displays of Japanese lanterns to celebrate their blossoming.

I enjoyed my Washington experience. There is so much to see and with most public attractions open free of charge to the public you can have a great visit on a surprisingly low budget.


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