My companion and I had dinner and a short cruise on La Peniche, and it was a very pleasurable experience. This refurbished barge on the Grand Canal is the only cruising restaurant in Dublin.
It is owned by Sam Field Corbett, who refurbished the 12 year old boat completely four years ago. He also has a second floating (but not cruising) restaurant and bar boat on the Liffey at Spencer Dock, the Cill Airne.
We arrived at the barge, which is anchored at Mespil Place on the canal between Leeson Street Bridge and Baggot Street Bridge, just before 6pm on a beautiful sunny evening.
We were ushered on to the top deck, where passengers were seated at tables enjoying drinks served to them by waiters in seagoing white and navy. The restaurant is on the deck below.
Across the canal a horsedrawn carriage was passing on a quiet street. It really felt, as La Peniche advertises on its website (www.lapeniche.ie), like going back in time. Who wants cars and buses and high-speed trains, when one can enjoy a leisurely float down a canal?
Our waitress, Julia, spoke German to the tourists next to us, and then ushered us down to the restaurant in English. She is training in hospitality in Germany and is on work experience here, and her truly welcoming demeanour is an asset to the restaurant and shows that she loves her work. The small boat has six staff, comprising the captain, cooks, servers, and part-time lockmen.
The wood-panelled dining room was compact but lovely, with its clean, polished wood interior and little table lamps on each table. Our comfortable bench was made even more so by plush cushions.
Behind us there were old books on the shelf, so we amused ourselves with Alexander Pope and Thomas A Kempis while waiting– not long– for our order. Tasteful Irish music played softly in the background, to a dinner party of locals and tourists alike.
The boat holds 47 seated passengers, and was nearly full for the 6pm sailing. There was another, less fully-booked sailing at 9pm. You can take your chances as a walk-in on the night, but it is better to book. It is possible to sail without dinner, but with the lovely smells coming from below, who would want to?
The dinner menu is reasonably-priced by Dublin standards, with three courses at €35 or two courses at €27.50. Drinks are extra, as is the €10 sailing charge to cover fuel and other expenses. There are soft drinks, coffees, spirits and a variety of good wines available by the glass or bottle.
While the possibility of baked Irish goats’ cheese with homemade walnut and honey dressing and salad leaves appealed, I opted for the Connemara smoked salmon with avocado salsa and a caper dressing. It was ample and aesthetically presented, along with the best avocado salsa I have had.
My dining companion is coeliac, and can get quite ill if he consumes gluten. As he had asked in advance, the restaurant provided him with such delicious, hot gluten-free bread that I have decided to be coeliac in future. I was given an ample basket of equally tasty brown bread and butter
For the main course, my companion chose duet of prawn and smoked mackerel served with a wholegrain mustard sauce, baby potatoes and green beans, which he proceeded to consume happily without leaving a crumb.
Bypassing the beef in Guinness, roasted chicken, and confit leg of duck, I chose the Irish lamb shank, slow-cooked with peppers, tomatoes and herbs, and new baby potatoes. The tender cooked meat fell away from the bone, and the concoction was delicious.
I was too full for dessert, but my companion offered me a taste of his raspberry mousse, and I nearly changed my mind. Afterwards we had coffee to round off the meal, by which time we were back at the dock.
The boat is also open for lunch Tuesday through Friday boarding from noon, and cruising at 1.15pm daily, with lunch at €14.50 and a small cruising charge of €5.
La Peniche can be hired exclusively at any time for private parties, corporate events, or group excursions. As part of your exclusive hire they will tailor a cruise for you. They say: ‘You let us know your requirements, time, location and duration. Your guests may sit out on deck whilst plying along one of Dublin’s most historic and attractive sights. In addition, we can provide options for live musical entertainment upon request. Each event is tailored around your taste and budget’.
The cost of exclusive hire for a day (12noon to 6pm) or evening (6pm to 12midnight) is €1,000. Or alternatively €600 for three hours (6pm to 9pm or 9pm to 12 midnight). However, if you don’t mind sharing the boat with a few others, you can bring 20 to 40 friends with you at no extra charge.
With summer on the way, what more could you ask for! Sit out on deck and dine alfresco or alternatively in the plush and comfortable cabin. We are already plotting a good reason to return– anybody having a birthday? Want to entertain some out-of-town guests?
You can reserve your place on the boat online or by phone, and also through the Dublin Tourism office.
Booking is recommended at all times, contact 087 7900077
The boat goes out all year round. There are also plans to launch a second boat in September, starting from a different point on the canal and cruising towards the old Guinness brewery.
I asked if the recession had affected business. Bookings were not down much, but people are buying less wine. This is one restaurant we would hate to see fold, so we highly recommend you give it a try. You won’t regret it.