Crete is in ruins. The remains of six major civilisations are scattered across the idyllic shores of Greece’s largest and most southerly isle.

The birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization is also on Crete. The Minoans arrived from North Africa around 2800 BC and ruled for over one thousand years before their cities and palaces were destroyed (it is speculated) by a tidal wave around 1450 BC. The Minoan legacy is preserved in many different parts of Crete with a major palace at Knosos and an impressive museum to Minoan culture in the capital Irakeio. The Minoans were the first of many dynasties to inhabit Crete. The treasures of thousands of years of history still remain with Greek and Roman temples, Venetian fortresses, Byzantine churches and elegant Turkish mosques just waiting to be rediscovered by today’s visitor.

Modern day attractions are just as plentiful as artifacts in Crete. Situated so far south, it enjoys probably the most welcoming climate of the entire Greek archipelago. Autumn is a good time to visit because the heat is more bearable and the crowds less plentiful. The northern part of the island is where most of the resorts are situated. Tourism is very well developed here, so if you want to enjoy all the benefits of a packaged holiday, you will be well catered for in places like Hersonnes, Malia and Stalis.

Despite its small size and the millions of visitors it receives every year, it is still possible to lose yourself in unspoilt and relatively unchartered parts of Crete. There is over 1,000 miles of coastline to explore and with car hire plentiful and inexpensive, it’s an ideal way of seeing the countryside. For the more adventurous, you can fly around the roads on mopeds or on small four-wheel quad bikes, which look like miniature tractors and are particularly popular with younger visitors.

The western side of Crete contains the most dramatic landscape. The beautiful White Mountains, reach a plateau here with the highest point on the island, Mount Idi, majestic at 2,456m (over 8,000ft).

Amidst the White Mountains you’ll also discover probably the most spectacular scenery in Crete, the Samaria Gorge. The Gorge is one of the deepest and longest in Europe measuring 18km in length and taking an exhausting 5 hours to complete by foot. If you are brave and fit enough to complete the trek, you will be rewarded with mile after mile of pine woods, wildflower meadows plus the chance to see some of Crete’s most exotic birds and wildlife.
Even though it rarely rains in Crete, much of the island is quite fertile and verdant. Olive groves and vineyards are a common sight, as are geraniums which seem to grow in abundance all over the island.

Cretan villages offer an excellent excursion away from the resorts and convey a way of life that seems to be unfazed by the passage of time. Up on the hills and high in the mountains, you’ll discover dozens of small villages where cars and trucks have to squeeze through narrow streets to pass. It’s a common sight to see the older men of the village sitting languidly outside cafés drinking cups of strong coffee. Dressed in dark clothes and flat caps, it’s fascinating to observe them, a lifetime of character and dignity etched into each one of their faces.

The women of the villages are much more active than their menfolk. The more enterprising among them sell linen and embroidery to passing tourists. Take a wander around the streets and amidst the whitewashed walls and large potted plants; you’ll invariably see the village cats seeking shelter from the unrelenting heat.

Escaping the mainland, Crete has an abundance of islands to explore and relax upon. From the prosperous port of Elounda on the east coast, a short ferry ride takes you to the remarkable island of Spinalonga. Build as a fortress by Venetians in 1579, almost all of the island is protected by ancient walls. Much of it still intact today.

Spinalonga was also used as a leper colony, the last one in Europe, abandoned in 1956. Hundreds of victims of leprosy lived here, totally excluded from the mainland for over 50 years. The colony’s way of life is encapsulated in the houses, shops, streets and churches, which are preserved today and which you can read about as you walk around the island. I was so captivated with this place and the spectacular scenery that surrounds Spinalonga, I lost track of time and missed my connection back to the mainland. As I waited on the quayside for the captain of the boat to return and retrieve me, I couldn’t help but think: “do I really want to leave here?”

Budget Travel fly direct to Crete three times a week till October from Dublin.

Doorway and ruins are on Spinalonga, the church on Crete.