MY FAVOURITE PLACE: SANDYCOVE
James Joyce lived in the Martello Tower as a guest of Oliver St. John Gogarty, the first civilian tenant, who had taken up residence in August 1904. The tower was one of a series built by the British Army in 1804 for defence against a threatened invasion by Napoleon. Joyce set the first chapter of ‘Ulysses’ in the tower, which was opened as a Joyce museum by Sylvia Beach, original publisher of Ulysses in 1962. Every year on 16th June, a date firmly marked in my calender, it is traditional for women dressed in lace blouses, hats and Edwardian period costume with James Joyce look-alikes in straw boaters, dark glasses, wearing brocade waistcoats, white trousers and jackets, yachting plimsolls and elegant canes to perform appropriate passages from Joyce’s work in celebration of the famous scribe. Sandycove’s commanding views have made the locality scenically beautiful and the superb vista across Dublin Bay comprises a landscape that includes Dun Laoire, Blackrock, Poolbeg and Bull lighthouses with the spires of the city and cranes in the skyscape. Look across the span of the open sea to Sutton and the Hill of Howth, the Baily Lighthouse, Dalkey Island to the left with the Wicklow Mountains in the background. The Forty Foot, beside the tower, was once known as a ‘gentlemen’s only’ bathing place, now open to all since 1976. It offers those who are brave enough the exhilaration of jumping off the jagged rocks that jut into the sea. It is a regular haunt for locals who are conditioned to their daily ritual of plunging into the sea, often in freezing temperature. The joie de vivre is apparent if you sit among these swimmers whose banter and familiarity with one another make it seem like an exclusive club. Popular on Christmas Day for hundreds of Dubliners that take the plunge in freezing temperatures for charitable causes. They emerge to applause from the crowd that gathers to enjoy the spectacle. Hot toddies and mulled wine accompanied by Christmas cake tend to bring a glimmer of warmth back into frozen bodies. No matter what the weather, the expanse of the promenade overlooking the bay leading from Dun Laoire will raise your spirits. Visit the farmers’ market in the Peoples Park on a Sunday before buying a delicious ice cream from Teddy’s. Then stroll along the promenade with its green carpet of grass towards Sandycove beach. Take in the sights and homes of former residents such as Joyce’s Tower, and ‘Geragh’, the stylish, curved, white house based on the great passenger liners of the day, designed by renowned architect Michael Scott. Children occupy the little beach where they make their sandcastles with their buckets and spades regardless of what time of year it is. After a brisk walk around Sandycove you may feel a bit peckish. Pop into the fashionable restaurant Cavistons where the food is simple and full of flavour and the clientele have both dash and cash. Owned by the gregarious Peter Caviston, the menu includes a wide variety of seafood and seasonal dishes where reservations are essential, as the popularity of the place ensures there’s never a spare seat for long. If you’re in a hurry and have no time for a lingering lunch try his sophisticated deli next door which offers a range of culinary treats. Here, you can buy everything from monkfish to prosciutto, cheese, salads, fresh bread and soups, all guaranteed mouth-watering fare. If you’re fussy about fashion and still have time, browse round the little boutiques you’ll find along this belt. They all carry an eclectic mix of designer labels on both clothes and shoes. For those that are furnishing a home or love collectables, just down the road is Buckley’s auctioneers. A treasure trove of furniture, paintings, rugs, glass and china, the most unusual sits side by side with the everyday pieces of modern living. The auction takes place on Thursday afternoons but beware– you have to have determination of steel not to be tempted to bid for some amazing finds. If you want to continue your journey, the path from Sandycove leads to Bullock Harbour on the way to Dalkey. But I usually stop at Sandycove and linger awhile just to savour the atmosphere and absorb the views. I hope you may be tempted to venture out someday to enjoy this very special place. |
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