It is 2pm on a Thursday afternoon in Sandymount’s latest epicurean adventure, Itsa4, and spare seats are at a premium.

“Have you got a reservation?” we are asked as soon as we walk through the glass door. We reply in the negative and are banished to the bar to reflect on our lack of forethought.

No sooner had we sat down and taken off our coats and we were whisked away to a nearby table. It might be busy in Itsa4 but the traffic certainly flows.

While we wait on our order, my companion and I have time to consider why this restaurant is flavour of the month in Sandymount.

New restaurants are supposedly slow to pick up business (and there are already two other restaurants in close proximity as well as two cafés) but judging by what we witnessed in our ‘off peak’ visit, this place could sell customers to its competitors.

The restaurant creates the impression of an up-market diner with a series of booths towards the back complementing the more conventional seating upfront. The parallel arrangement of tables makes for a cosy, clubby ambience although winter makes an unwelcome appearance whenever the front door opens. Some draught exclusion would not go amiss here.

Skipping starters, our main course consisted of a Char-grilled Burger with melted Swiss cheese and organic French fries for moi and Tart of the Day with green salad for Dorothy.

Perfectly cooked and full of flavour, the burger had a lovely homemade quality about it and I couldn’t get enough of the accompanying fries. The tart was served at room temperature and consisted of spinach, feta cheese and cherry tomatoes.

I thought it tasted delicious but Dorothy was not as effusive in her praise. I think she regretted not going for her first preference, the steak!

For dessert I went for the Chocolate Mocha Tart with Vanilla ice cream while D had the Warm Sticky Toffee Pudding with Créme Fraiche. The texture of our selection couldn’t have been more contrasting. I found my tart a little heavy on the palette while the pudding was lovely and light and tasted divine.

We ordered tea and cappuccino to accompany our desserts but I had to remind the waitress to bring them to the table. Our bill, including an extra portion of French fries, came to a not insubstantial €44.80.

With fresh, organic food in abundance and a quirky selection of starters and main courses, Itsa4 has quickly found a niche for itself among Sandymount foodies. Despite slightly erratic service, it was a very pleasant and satisfying lunch. A return visit for dinner is already on my mind, as is sinking my teeth into more of that Sticky Toffee Pudding. Mmmmmm!

Itsa4 is open from 10am to 5pm, 7 days a week for breakfast, brunch and lunch. From February 16 the restaurant hopes to serve dinner at the weekend. Phone 219 4676 for reservations.