Stephen
McAllister is fast making a name for himself in Dublin’s
culinary circles.
Still in his early twenties, Stephen is a veteran of such fine eateries
as The Commons, Bruno’s and Jacob’s Ladder and until recently
the Citron restaurant in the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Stephen’s Green.
Much in demand, the young Dublin chef seems to be more than just flavour
of the month with our national broadcaster, where his cooking skills can
be seen on ‘The Afternoon Show’ and on a second series of
‘The Restaurant’.
With the recent birth of his second child, Stephen has even more on his
plate than usual, but he still found time to talk to us epicureans at
‘NewsFour’.
To begin Stephen, where would you say your love of food came from?
My grandfather was a very good cook, he used to work in the kitchens on
ships and while everyone else was out playing in the garden when I was
young, I remember being the one who was beside the stove helping out.
My Mam was a good cook as well, so it was always in the family I suppose.
What kind of formal education did you receive in cooking?
From school in Raheny, I got a job in a little French bistro in Donnybrook
and then I did a DIT in Cathal Brugha Street for three years, so that
was my basic education. The lecturers in college were fine but I never
wanted to follow the rules and recipes. I always liked experimenting with
things, almost playing with the food. I didn’t like to be told “you
can’t do that”, so I think I really learnt to express myself
better in the kitchens on work experience.
Where did the inspiration for your cooking come from?
Adrian Roche in Jacob’s Ladder on Nassau Street was one good teacher.
I really feel I learnt a lot there. We had a very small team and it was
hard work but the food is very good.
He was a real inspiration in terms of the work ethic. I learned quickly
you really have to put the hours in, if you want to become a good chef
and create your own individual style.
Are you a fussy eater? Would you be the type to complain in a
restaurant?
To be honest with you, I’m not the type to complain. If I don’t
like something on my plate, I wouldn’t send it back, I just wouldn’t
return to the restaurant.
I suppose the thing that annoys me, though, is a lot of people put up
with bad food and by that, I mean they pay a lot of money for poor food.
I mean €18 for a bowl of pasta! Nobody should pay that.
A lot of places are getting away with serving the same type of food at
over-the-top prices and the service is poor and it’s giving a lot
of restaurants a bad name. Sometimes people just want to be seen in the
right place. They are there not necessarily for the food but just to socialise.
Do you think
men make better chefs than men?
I think the kitchen is a little bit like the army. It’s tough work,
very physical and male-orientated but it’s so easy to get burned
out. Women might be as talented as men and have the right mentality but
the physical nature of the job means its more suitable to guys, I suppose.
Having said that, I like having women in the kitchen, with too many guys
things can go a little too wild and so it’s good to have a gender
balance.
What about
ambitions and awards?
Any Chef who tells you he doesn’t want to win a Michelin star is
lying. That’s what you strive for, because you want to cook the
best food you can possibly serve and you want to give the best service
and that’s what the star system is all about. I would love to win
one and touch wood, in the future, hopefully I will.
A lot of chefs shy
away from the limelight, but the way I see it you have to do try your
hardest and the awards help prove you have tried to create the very best
for your restaurant.
As a treat for ‘NewsFour’
readers, Stephen has given us two of his favourite desserts to share.
APPLE & CINNAMON
CRUMBLE
Ingredients
1kg Granny Smith’s apples
150g plain flour.
150g butter (cold).
150g brown sugar.
100g granulated sugar.
Good pinch of cinnamon.
Vanilla ice cream to serve.
Method
Peel and chop the apples into bite-sized pieces.
Place in a non-stick pan and cook over a medium heat for five minutes.
When the apples have started to soften a little, add the granulated sugar
and the cinnamon, allow to dissolve and then place in a baking dish.
To make the crumble,
rub together the flour, brown sugar and butter and rub through your fingers
to make crumbs
Spread the crumb
mixture over the apples, sprinkle with brown sugar and bake at 190C for
20 to 25 minutes.
To Serve
Serve hot with ice cream.
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
WITH GINGER BREAD AND LIQUORICE-SCENTED HONEY
Ingredients
100g coverture chocolate,
melted
100ml cream, lightly whipped
2 egg whites, whipped to
soft peak stage
50g sugar
Water to cover
2 slices ginger bread.
Honey
Liquorice root
Method
First heat the honey and liquorice and let infuse.
Next bring the sugar and water to a soft ball stage.
Take off and let cool slightly. While whipping the egg whites, add the
sugar at a slow, steady stream, until it is well mixed.
Fold the chocolate
and cream together. Then fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture.
Let set in the fridge for one hour.
To Serve
Place a slice of ginger bread onto a plate. Place a scoop of mousse on
top and drizzle some honey over and around. Serve strawberries or raspberries
on the side.
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